Nasal Chowk


From the entrance gate of the Hanuman Dhoka you immediately enter its most famous chowk. Although the courtyard was constructed in the Malla period, many of the buildings around the square are later Rana constructions. During that time Nasal Chowk became the square used for coronations, a practice that continued to the last King of the Shah Dynasty (on the coronation platform in the centre of the courtyard ex-King Gyanendra was crowned here in 2001).

The nine-storey Basantapur (Kathmandu) Tower looms over the southern end of the courtyard.

The rectangular courtyard is aligned north-south and the entrance is at the northwestern corner. Just by the entrance there is a surprisingly small but beautifully carved doorway, which once led to the Malla kings’ private quarters.

Beyond the door is the large Narsingha Statue, Vishnu in his man-lion incarnation, in the act of disembowelling a demon. The stone image was erected by Pratap Malla in 1673 and the inscription on the pedestal explains that he placed it here for fear that he had offended Vishnu by dancing in a Narsingha costume. The Kabindrapur Temple in Durbar Sq was built for the same reason.

Next is the Audience Chamber of the Malla kings. The open veranda houses the Malla throne and contains portraits of the Shah kings. Images of the present king and queen dominate the eastern wall.

In Nepali nasal means ‘dancing one’, and Nasal Chowk takes its name from Dancing Shiva Statue hidden inside the whitewashed chamber on the eastern side of the square.

At the northeastern corner of the Nasal Chowk stands tHanuman Dhoka, Old Town with its five circular roofs. Each of the valley towns has a five-storey temple, although it is the great Nyatapola Temple of Bhaktapur that is by far the best known. Hanuman is worshipped in the temple in Kathmandu, but only the priests of the temple may enter it.

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